Ingredients

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 medium red onion, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices

1/4 teaspoon red-pepper flakes, plus more for serving

1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar

Coarse salt

1 pound tuscan kale, stems removed and leaves torn into 3-inch pieces (about 10 cups)

12 ounces orecchiette

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup grated Pecorino-Romano cheese

Freshly grated nutmeg

2 ounces semisoft goat cheese (such as Le Chevrot), for serving

Preparation

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and red-pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until onion is softened, 6 to 8 minutes. Sprinkle with sugar and toss to coat. Add vinegar and cook until completely reduced, about 1 minute. Season mixture with salt and remove from skillet.

Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to skillet and increase heat to medium-high. Add kale in batches and cook, stirring, until greens are wilted and just tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Season with salt. Return onion mixture to pan, stir to combine, and cook until just heated through.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook until al dente. Reserve 1 cup pasta water; drain pasta.

Return pasta to pot, along with kale, butter, and Pecorino. Cook over medium heat, stirring and adding enough pasta water to form a light sauce that coats pasta. Add nutmeg to taste and season with salt. Divide among 4 bowls and serve each with a few thin slices of goat cheese on top and red-pepper flakes to taste.