Ingredients

1 bunch cedar branches, such as eastern white, mostly greenery, plus very thin strips cedar bark

8 to 12 unsprayed striped maple leaves, stems removed

8 thin lemon slices

4 halibut or other firm whitefish fillets (4 ounces each; 1 1/4 inches thick)

Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper

Preparation

Soak cedar branches and bark in water (weighted with something heavy to keep submerged) for 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Arrange 2 or 3 maple leaves on a work surface, overlapping slightly. Top with 2 lemon slices and 1 fish fillet. Season with salt and pepper. Wrap leaves around fish to enclose, and secure with a"string" of cedar bark. (You can also use kitchen twine.) Repeat with remaining leaves, lemon slices, fish fillets, and cedar bark.

Fill the bottom of a large cast-iron skillet with drained cedar branches. Heat over high heat until fragrant and just starting to smoke, about 3 minutes. Arrange fish packets on top of cedar branches, and cook for 2 minutes. Transfer skillet to oven, and cook until fish is firm and the tip of a paring knife inserted into the center comes out hot, about 12 minutes. Serve immediately.