Ingredients

Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon, and cracked black peppercorns

1 1/2 teaspoons juniper berries

2 sticks unsalted butter, softened

1/4 cup roughly chopped fresh sorrel or tarragon leaves

2 tablespoons finely chopped red onion

2 tablespoons drained capers, rinsed and roughly chopped

1 tablespoon coarse-grained mustard

1 teaspoon fresh lemon zest

13 slices ruis or other dark rye bread, cut in half

1 pound sliced smoked fish, such as sable, whitefish, sturgeon, or salmon

Preparation

Make the juniper salt: Gently crush 2 tablespoons salt and the juniper berries on a cutting board with a flat side of a large heavy knife or in a mortar and pestle until coarsely ground. (Juniper salt can be stored, tightly wrapped with plastic wrap, 2 days.)

Make the sorrel-red onion butter: Stir together butter, sorrel, onion, capers, mustard, and lemon zest. Season with salt and peppercorns. (Butter can be refrigerated up to 1 week; flavors will intensify.)

Slather bread with butter, top with some smoked fish, and sprinkle with juniper salt.